Can I find a good Seattle bagel at... Toasted. Bagels & Coffee
The long-awaited University District bagel cafe is finally here.
Welcome to It’s A Shanda, one Northeastern Jew’s quest to find a decent bagel in Seattle (and beyond). If you’re interested in taking this journey with me, make sure you subscribe so you never miss a review. If you want to make sure I review any specific bagels (or want to let me know why I’m wrong), you can email me at itsashanda@substack.com.
When I met Toasted co-owner Jaafar Altameemi in May to discuss the cafe’s imminent opening, I had no idea our conversation would end up being about how the long-awaited University District bagel place might not ever open its doors.
Due to a series of unfortunate events, he and co-owner Murat Akyüz found themselves with nothing to show for their hard work other than mounting debt. Just as the dam seemed ready to break, they were able to get what they needed and finally opened Toasted at the corner of 15th Avenue NE and NE 50th Street in July.
On Day One, they sold out in three hours (as it wont to happen in Seattle) and now they’re off and running.
I think what’s most intriguing about Toasted is the point of view it brings to Seattle’s bagel scene. We’ve got a lot of bagel shops, a few Jewish delis, and plenty of bakeries. One thing we did not have until now is a “Mediterranean-inspired bagel cafe.”
Like many other Seattle bagel slingers, you can get a bagel with cream cheese or a lox sandwich. But the menu focuses on Turkish and Mediterranean flavors. You’ll find hummus, labneh, date spread, and honey spread all across the menu (and the bagels).
“We're a cultural crossroad, introducing the richness of Middle Eastern heritage to Seattle's diverse tapestry,” reads their website. “Nestled among university students from every corner of the world, we're passionate about sharing a slice of home through our bagels & coffee.”
I was reminded of something the founder of the Big Apple Bagels chain once said of bagels: “It's not ethnic food anymore.” The idea was that the cultural identity of the bagel had been stripped away to make it more appealing to the masses.
Personally, I’d much rather see bagels go in this direction, as a springboard for cultural flavor profiles that enhance our idea of what they can be. As a gateway to new tastes and unique preparations that challenge the eater instead of placating them.
Of course, the bagels still have to be good. So let’s find out if that’s the case.
And if you want to know how I define a good bagel, you can find that here.
WHAT I ORDERED
Plain bagel with a side of Turkish labneh cream cheese ($5.75)
Everything bagel with plain cream cheese ($5.75)
“Taste of Istanbul” on sesame bagel ($11.95)
THE EXPERIENCE
I kept hearing about the long lines that Toasted was getting, so I figured I’d pick my spot and show up when it was a little calmer. Tuesday morning did the trick, though they still had customers trickling in while I was there. The bagel game stops for no one.
Inside, the bright interiors are spacious but inviting and gave me a feeling I would call elevated comfort. The staff was incredibly friendly, the menu was efficient, and the overall vibes were good. I could definitely see this as a place I would return soon with my laptop to grab a coffee and do some writing.
You know the deal, I review bagels here. However, since we know Toasted is using Backyard Bagels (for now) and their focus is on the sandwiches and spreads, it only seemed right to sample one of their specials to help get a sense of the full experience.
Given my recent travels to Turkey, I knew I had to get the “Taste of Istanbul” sandwich. For the everything bagel, they didn’t have scallion cream cheese so I opted for plain schmear. The plain bagel came with a spread on the side, so I went with the Turkish labneh schmear to mix things up.
UPON FIRST GLANCE
The first thing I noticed when I was handed the bag with my order was that all of my bagels had a “toasted” designation even though I hadn’t specifically said so. I suppose if there’s any place that deserves a pass on that, it’s the one literally called Toasted.
Digging into the bag, I was very pleased to see that the everything with cream cheese had been wrapped and cut down the middle. The plain bagel had been pre-sliced, which, again, makes sense for what Toasted is doing, but isn’t my preference.
TOP
The pre-sliced plain bagel was a good size, featuring a medium-long center and an oblong shape. The top of the plain bagel was a golden brown and uniform feel with no blistering. Soft to the touch, there was some crispiness due to the bagel’s toasting.
I immediately clocked that the everything bagel was very substantial in size, but we’ll come back to that. As for the top, it was a delightfully dark golden brown and featured a medium seed hand. The toasting had burned some of the onion and garlic bits but that’s necessarily a bad thing.
BOTTOM
The bottom of the plain bagel was firm and crispy to the touch. I also noted some blistering and really nice coloring around the center. I did not detect any Cornmeal Ring of Doom (CRoD).
So as I mentioned, I found the everything bagel to be incredibly substantial in its all-around size. After investigating what I presumed to be the bottom, I concluded that they had served me a bagel with two tops. Not that I was complaining as the “bottom” was also well-seeded, but I thought it was funny nonetheless.
There was no CRoD, obviously.
INSIDE/BITE
The plain bagel offered a crispy bite, partly thanks to being toasted. It was still soft on the inside with a medium rebound. I didn’t detect any dryness due to the slicing and I felt like the bagel ate well on its own, though I would much rather eat it untoasted.
Since this bagel came with a generous container of Turkish labneh cream cheese, I figured I might as well see how they paired. While I don’t always go for schmears infused with cheese or yogurt, I found this one to have a very subtle flavor. The texture was creamy and offered a nice mouthfeel. It also helped that the schmear was still cold. It certainly elevated the bagel.
As for the everything bagel with plain cream cheese, we were working with some solid schmear application here. Even though the cream cheese was light and creamy, it held its shape really well during bites and didn’t ooze out the sides. It certainly helped that it was still cold.
The everything seasoning came through on the bite thanks to the inclusion of salt (AS GOD INTENDED). The onion bits were particularly notable. The bagel itself offered a nice chew thanks to a soft but not fluffy interior. I felt like I wanted a little bit more flavor to come through, but overall I enjoyed eating this.
When I think of breakfast in Turkey, I think of fresh vegetables, vibrant fruits, pungent cheeses, and soft breads laid out across an entire table. The “Taste of Istanbul” combines the dishes of a traditional Turkish breakfast into one meal. It’s hummus, heirloom tomato, pickled onions, cucumber, dill, lemon zest, and olive oil on (in this case) a sesame bagel.
As you might be able to tell from the photos, it’s substantial. Trying to get a bite with everything in it means you have to make a mess, so snap your Instagram photos first. Everything felt fresh and I found the ingredients to be very balanced. The sesame bagel made for a good sandwich delivery system thanks to a firm base but pillowy interior. The pickled onions and the dill popped the most for me.
FINAL THOUGHTS
I recognize going in that my review style doesn’t quite jibe with what Toasted is doing. It’s about the bagels but it’s also not about the bagels, if you know what I mean. It’s not a place you go to grab a dozen bagels (in fact, I don’t even think that’s an option). It is a place that you go to get a sandwich with some tea or coffee and find respite from the hubbub of the world outside. By all accounts it succeeds in that mission.
Is It Good Enough For The Goys?
Remember how I said the goyim would love Salmonberry Goods because they put sprigs and edible flowers on their bagels? Well here you’ll find things like dill and walnuts and pears and thyme on the bagels. This is their jam.
Is It Good Enough For Northeastern Jews?
I would highly encourage my fellow NEJs to plan a visit. If you can live with the toasting, the bagels are solid (if you like Backyard Bagels, then you’re all set) and you’ll probably see some presentations you’ve never seen before, not to mention some unique ingredients atop those bagels. The melding of bagels with Mediterranean and Turkish cuisine is somehow untraditional and ultratraditonal at the same time, if that makes sense.
MY SEATTLE BAGEL RANKINGS SO FAR (8/7/24)
Hey Bagel - 1st visit
Bloom Bistro (Georgetown) - 1st visit
Toasted (U District)
Loxsmith Bagels (West Seattle) - 1st visit
Rubinstein Bagels (Eastlake) - 1st visit
Rachel's Bagels & Burritos (Ballard) - 1st visit, 2nd visit, 3rd visit
Macrina Bakery (Capitol Hill) - 1st visit
Eltana (Wallingford) - 1st visit
Westman’s (U District) - 1st visit
Blazing Bagels (Ravenna) - 1st visit
Einstein Bros. Bagels (U Village) - 1st visit
Dingfelder’s (Capitol Hill) - 1st visit
Kelly’s Cannoli (Magnolia) - 1st visit
Bagelbop (Pike Place Market) - 1st visit
OUTSIDE SEATTLE BAGEL RANKINGS (6/3/24)
The Bagelry (Bellingham)
Howdy Bagel (Tacoma)
The Cottage Bakery (Edmonds)
Shawn’s Cafe & Bakery (Mercer Island)
Coquette Bake Shop (Bainbridge Island)
Caffe Vino Olio (Vashon Island)
Rubinstein Bagels (Redmond)
Good Bagels Cafe (Anacortes)
Mustard Seed Baking Co. (Stanwood)
Blazing Bagels (Redmond)
Otherside Bagel Co. (Bellingham)
Whidbey Island Bagel Factory (Mt. Vernon)
Woodinville Bagel Bakery (Woodinville)
Big Apple Bagels (Bellevue)
Thanks for actually reading this far. If you enjoyed my Seattle bagel review and want to read more of them, make sure you’re subscribed to It’s A Shanda. Know someone in the Greater Seattle Area (or beyond) who would appreciate way-too-detailed reviews of local bagels? Forward the link their way.
Ate there earlier this week and was disappointed. Maybe it's first-month-open pains, but they were stale at 10AM. Better than Rubinstein or Oxboy, sure, but Loxsmith, no way.