Can I find a good Seattle bagel at... Cafe Solstice
A University District institution for coffee and studying...but for bagels?
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“I had been a barista for two years previously. After moving from Portland to Seattle, I needed a job to get by, and it was fun work.”
That was Doug Sowers speaking to USA Today in 2014 discussing why joined Joel Wood at Capitol Hill’s Cafe Solstice espresso stand, which hit the scene in 1993.
“During the 1990s, the Cafe Solstice coffee cart was one of the defining local, independent ventures that made Broadway the hub of Capitol Hill street life,” wrote Capitol Hill Seattle in 2013.
In 2001, Cafe Solstice moved to a spacious cafe at 42nd and University Way where its reputation as an essential homework and study spot for University of Washington students was born.
In 2013, Capitol Hill denizens were thrilled to hear Cafe Solstice was returning, taking over a 3,000-square-foot space at 10th & Thomas. Alas, that second location closed in 2019, with Sowers telling CHS “We gave it our best go for five years” but “it is a really expensive space.”
The U District location remains a community staple, a quiet cafe, an art space, and a great place to grab a bite. Their Lighthouse Roasters coffee and all-day menu is buttressed by a steady selection of quick bites, such as paninis, breakfast burritos, cookies, and bagels. And if you don’t know where to find them, just look for the iconic buffalo atop the sign out front.
Can you find a good bagel in this student-friendly coffee shop? Let’s find out…
WHAT I ORDERED
Plain bagel as-is ($2)
Everything bagel with plain cream cheese ($4)
THE EXPERIENCE
My college days are long behind me, but I could imagine camping out here all day to do my homework or work on a project. Heck, if I lived closer I’d probably hang out here now and write bagel newsletters.
I stopped by early on Monday morning, but students were already lining one wall with open laptops or scribbling in notebooks. The full food selection wasn’t out but the bagels were front and center, sitting on a tray above the breakfast burritos and panini sandwiches.
They had a few basic flavors (plain, sesame, cheese, everything) and a container of “cream cheese,” which I assumed would be plain. So I ordered accordingly.
UPON FIRST GLANCE
The first thing I noticed when I looked at the bagels was that they’d all been pre-sliced. Hmph. The second thing I noticed was that they looked familiar. I’ve seen enough bagels to know when I’m looking at pre-packaged bagels. My best guess is that these are Seattle Bagel Bakery (the everything seasoning is usually the giveaway). When I ordered, I was asked if I wanted them toasted. HMPH.
TOP
The bagel itself was a good size though somewhat elongated with a slit-like center. The coloring on top was brown to light brown. I noted a few textural spots but for the most part, it was very uniform in feel. The top was firm to the touch but did not offer any kind of crispness.
The everything bagel was also a good size and this one was more uniformly round with a small-to-medium center. The top was very beige due to a lighter exterior mixed with the garlic- and onion-heavy seasoning. The bagel itself looks brown to light brown. There was a strong seed hand with the aforementioned focus. The top was firm to the touch but with no crispness. The toppings were also a little soggy.
BOTTOM
The bottom of the plain bagel offered some nicer coloring, though I noted a Cornmeal Ring of Doom (CroD). The bottom was extremely soft to the touch. Doughy to an alarming degree, it almost felt moist.
The bottom of the everything bagel was very similar. Decent coloring, some crags and crannies, and a slight CRoD. Again, the bottom was very soft to the touch and somewhat moist. The edges also felt a little underbaked.
INSIDE/BITE
The bite on the plain bagel was very rubbery and the interior felt dry. There was no texture to be found anywhere. The best way to describe the flavor was “blank,” though I did get a slight sweetness at the end of the chew. This was not the kind of bagel one could capably eat without toasting and adding some kind of schmear or topping to.
I added all of the plain cream cheese from my accompanying container to the everything bagel. The chew felt ephemeral as if I was biting into nothing. Again, there was a distinct lack of flavor, which was notable considering this bagel was topped with seasoning and smothered in schmear. There was no discernable texture, the toppings were indeed soggy, and the cream cheese was unmemorable. This bagel almost certainly needed to be toasted to be enjoyable. Some salt in the everything mix (AS GOD INTENDED) would help too.
FINAL THOUGHTS
As soon as I saw the bagels sitting on the counter, I knew how this was gonna go. Here’s the thing: No one comes to Cafe Solstice for the bagels (at least, they shouldn’t). There are plenty of great options available on their menu. And the point of the bagels here is to be sustenance to keep you going while you study, not to wow you with bold flavors and textures. It’d be cool if they did decide to upgrade to a better bagel, but again, it’s not what makes this classic coffee shop so popular.
Is It Good Enough For The Goys?
As I said, the goal when eating a bagel at Cafe Solstice is not excitement or delight. It’s here to fill a need. So if you’re cramming for your chemistry finals and just need a carbo-boost, go with god (although they have a lot of great alternatives available). Just please take them up on that offer to toast. I don’t say that often but, in this case, it’s a necessity.
Is It Good Enough For Northeastern Jews?
Setting aside the obvious answer, I will say that the University District has suddenly sprouted a few bagel options. If you find yourself in need of a nosh, you’d be much better served getting your bagel fix at Bean & Bagel, Toasted, or Westman’s. But again, Cafe Solstice has a lot of delicious options that still make it a great place to grab a cup of coffee and a sandwich.
MY SEATTLE BAGEL RANKINGS SO FAR (9/16/24)
Hey Bagel - 1st visit
Toasted (U District) - 1st visit
Loxsmith Bagels (West Seattle) - 1st visit
Rubinstein Bagels (Eastlake) - 1st visit
Rachel's Bagels & Burritos (Ballard) - 1st visit, 2nd visit, 3rd visit
Macrina Bakery (Capitol Hill) - 1st visit
Eltana (Wallingford) - 1st visit
Westman’s (U District) - 1st visit
Blazing Bagels (Ravenna) - 1st visit
Einstein Bros. Bagels (U Village) - 1st visit
Dingfelder’s (Capitol Hill) - 1st visit
Cafe Solstice (U District)
Kelly’s Cannoli (Magnolia) - 1st visit
Bagelbop (Pike Place Market) - 1st visit
You can find my full bagel rankings here.
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