Can I find a good Port Angeles bagel at... Atomic Bagels
I was not familiar with the Olympic Peninsula's bagel game...
Welcome to It’s A Shanda, one Northeastern Jew’s quest to find a decent bagel in Seattle (and beyond). If you’re interested in taking this journey with me, make sure you subscribe so you never miss a review. If you want to make sure I review any specific bagels (or want to let me know why I’m wrong), you can email me at itsashanda@substack.com.
Puerto de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles. That’s what Spanish explorer Francisco de Eliza dubbed a harbor on the northern shores of the Olympic Peninsula in 1791. English speakers who later settled in the region did what English speakers often do. They shortened and anglicized the name, landing on Port Angeles.
The city and surrounding region have a long history that spans cultures, influences, and industries. While Port Angeles has grown and evolved, one constant we can presume is that all of that change hasn’t included a robust bagel scene.
Olympic Bagel Company closed its doors in 2017, leaving the city without a dedicated bagel joint. Sure, you could find a bagel at several bakeries and coffee shops, but the region lacked an artisanal bagel maker it could call its own.
That is, until last year when Atomic Bagels hit the scene. After a soft opening in December, they’ve been a runaway hit since. Seeing “sold out” messages on their social media feeds quickly became commonplace and the consensus from locals appears to be that their bagels are nothing short of spectacular.
We’ve spent so much time focused on how Seattle’s bagel scene has boomed but there’s something to be said for the reverberations sweeping across the entire region. From Bellingham to Tacoma to Olympia we’ve seen solid bagel shops take root. Why not Port Angeles out on the Olympic Peninsula too?
Let’s find out if Atomic Bagels lives up to the hype that’s been making its way across Puget Sound for the past year…
And if you want to know how I define a good bagel, you can find that here.
WHAT I ORDERED
Plain bagel as-is ($2.75)
Everything bagel with cream cheese ($4.00)
THE EXPERIENCE
Snugly nestled on 1st Street near the harbor, the shop adds an unmissable pop of color to the block. The retro 50s/skateboarder kitsch aesthetic gives Atomic Bagels a unique vibe and fills the skinny storefront with a lot of personality.
Atomic seems focused on the schmears, heavily promoting its rotating list of cream cheese options. This week’s selections included smoked salmon, sun-dried tomato, green chile chorizo, dill pickle, and pear. For the review, I stuck to the plain but I’d be interested in trying some of their fresh flavor concoctions.
There’s also a solid collection of classic bagel flavors and various cheddar-based options (including jalapeño…).
UPON FIRST GLANCE
I liked the look of all the bagels, which were nicely laid out in basket trays at the front counter. There seemed to be some heavy seed hands at work and each one had a distinct look. Did I spy some caraway seeds on those everything bagels? I sure did. Visually, they were living up to the hype. There was a simplicity to their offerings that was appealing.
TOP
The plain bagel was a good size with a very tight center and bulbous shape. The top was a beautiful golden brown and the color was uniform all the way across. There was a uniformity to the texture and feel of the top, which was crinkly and crackly as I touched it.
The everything bagel was also a good size, though it was a looser role with a small-medium center. I was surprised to see such a weak seed hand on the top of the bagel as the ones I saw in the shop seemed to be loaded. I’ll posit my theory below. The top was light to golden brown. It was firm to the touch and I got some crinkles as I pressed.
BOTTOM
The bottom of the plain was flat and firm. There was no Cormeal Ring of Doom (CRoD) present. The coloring was dark towards the middle which got lighter towards the edges.
The bottom of the everything bagel is where the seasoning was hiding. While the top had just a smattering of poppy seed, sesame seed, and salt, the bottom had a full collection of seasoning, including those caraway seeds. 🤌 There was a slight caramelization on the bottom, which was very firm to the touch and almost knockable.
INSIDE/BITE
The plain bagel offered a very tough and crispy rip. I got a good bagel smell from the interior. They make sourdough bagels but I didn’t find the sourdoughiness distracting. It was a tough chew in a good way thanks to a crisp but firm exterior and fluffy but not airy interior. I noted that the bagel flavor was light. Not quite the classic plain bagel flavor but certainly not bad. Every bite offered a little bit of crinkle. It had a medium rebound after each bite as well. I ate the whole thing and really savored each bite.
The everything bagel with plain cream cheese came un-sliced. There was a substantial schmear application, which is appreciated. I did get some of that caraway seed flavor but the lack of overall everything seasoning meant there wasn’t much else to it. My theory is that the seeds don’t stick well, so they come tumbling off during the slice and schmearing. There was a slight rebound on the bite. The interior of the bagel seemed fluffy but not dense.
The cream cheese was chilled but very soft, so it oozed all over the place with each bite. There was a tang that was a little unappealing as well. I would have enjoyed the whole thing much more with a cold block of cream cheese.
That said, my trusted producer got an everything bagel with the smoked salmon schmear and found that the cream cheese stayed in place. That made us wonder if the flavored schmears are thicker and colder, and therefore the better ordering option (She also said it was one of the best Washington bagels she’s eaten, period).
FINAL THOUGHTS
Sticking with the plain bagel for a second, I can honestly say that was one of the best plain bagels in Western Washington. They have a toaster in their store and a part of me wants to break in, steal that toaster, and throw it in the harbor. These bagels are too good for toasting. (Alas, I understand what world I live in as well).
But seriously, it’s a rare thing to find a Seattle-area bagel that I can eat without any schmears or toppings and truly enjoy as a standalone meal. They’re doing something right here.
As for the everything bagel with plain cream cheese, it didn’t live up to the experience of the plain. However, I do see the positives in it, as well as the possibility that a little bit of strategic ordering will make my next experience way better. There’s room for improvement, but I find myself looking for a reason to head back soon to try their other options.
Speaking of, I did grab a jalapeño cheddar bagel to-go. While it doesn’t qualify for inclusion in the Seattle Jalapeño Cheddar Bagel Jamboree, it was good. Admittedly I had it a day later but the peppers were still juicy and fresh and the flavors were on point.
Is It Good Enough For The Goys?
According to Best Places, 0.2% of Port Angelinos identify as Jewish (Shout out to Olympic B'nai Shalom Havurah). That means the good goyim of Port Angeles are the main beneficiaries of these bagels (with no crappy national chain anywhere in sight). All of a sudden, they’re living the dream out there on the Olympic Peninsula.
Is It Good Enough For Northeastern Jews?
I think so! Do yourself a favor and plan a day trip out to the Peninsula. On your way to one of the beaches or a rainforest hike, stop at Atomic Bagels and sample their wares. I think you’ll be pleased.
As for the rankings, the experience reminded me of The Bagelry where one bagel was exceptional and the other had some fixable issues. I’m putting Atomic slightly ahead of them but just behind 6th Borough, where I got a slightly more well-rounded experience. But I gotta say, the Western Washington bagel bar has been raised.
OUTSIDE SEATTLE BAGEL RANKINGS (10/14/24)
6th Borough Bagels (Olympia)
Atomic Bagels (Port Angeles)
The Bagelry (Bellingham)
Howdy Bagel (Tacoma)
The Cottage Bakery (Edmonds)
Shawn’s Cafe & Bakery (Mercer Island)
Coquette Bake Shop (Bainbridge Island)
Caffe Vino Olio (Vashon Island)
Rubinstein Bagels (Redmond)
Good Bagels Cafe (Anacortes)
Mustard Seed Baking Co. (Stanwood)
San Francisco Street Bakery (Olympia)
Blazing Bagels (Redmond)
Otherside Bagel Co. (Bellingham)
Whidbey Island Bagel Factory (Mt. Vernon)
Woodinville Bagel Bakery (Woodinville)
Whidbey Island Bagel Factory (Clinton)
Big Apple Bagels (Bellevue)
Street Coffee & Bagels (Everett)
You can see my full rankings here.
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