Let's do a blind Seattle bagel test
Let's do a blind Seattle bagel test
Almost a year into this absurd journey, can I tell one Seattle bagel from another?
Welcome to It’s A Shanda, one Northeastern Jew’s quest to find a decent bagel in Seattle (and beyond). If you’re interested in taking this journey with me, make sure you subscribe so you never miss a review. If you want to ensure I review any specific bagels (or want to let me know why I’m wrong), you can email me at seanmatthewkeeley@gmail.com.
We’re closing in on one year since I started eating mostly mediocre bagels for the enjoyment of others. I’ve learned a lot in that time. Where I can find a solid Seattle bagel. The many places where I won’t. Who knows how to make a good schmear and who is being a schmendrick.
There are still plenty of bagels to eat and places to visit. But given what I do know, I’ve been wondering if I would be able to tell Seattle’s bagels apart simply based on how they look and taste.
So I decided to put that to the test.
With some help from my trusted bagel newsletter producer, I was presented with two plain bagels. I had no prior knowledge of where those bagels came from. I did not see any packaging and I did not ask any questions beforehand.
The first thing I noticed about the bagel on the left was the pale brown complexion. A little lighter than I’d ideally like to see it. I did appreciate the little nub, which let me know this was hand-rolled and promised a little bit of a texture point. There was a slight crisp sensation when I touched the top that confirmed there was probably some crunch ahead.
As for the bagel on the right, I was a big fan of the brown coloring. I was an even bigger fan of the extremely bubbly exterior, which implied a well-fermented bagel that would be pretty crunchy. You can also see there was a bubbling nub on one edge of the bagel, which ensured a crackly bite. In fact, a light touch of the top confirmed this was going to be a very crisp bagel.
Flipping the left bagel over, I was very impressed with the sturdy bottom. This bagel had been baked well and the crust meant it would maintain its bite integrity and be an ideal vehicle for schmears or a sandwich. It also had a nice color and no noticeable cornmeal ring of doom.
As for the right bagel, the bottom was also crispy but not quite as sturdy, pushing in on touch. I loved the dark ring at the center of the bottom and there was no cornmeal ring of doom here either.
I picked up both bagels at this point to compare their structural integrity. The left bagel was a good size and weight and felt like what I would expect a bagel to be. The right bagel was lighter and airier but was an appropriate size (casts side-eye at Eltana).
I tore into the left bagel and it took a bit of strength to really break it apart. It was also a very crusty tear, which I am a big fan of. Taking a bite, I was immediately struck with a strong sourdough flavor and taste. It was a crunchy bite and a tough chew in a good way. As for that aforementioned nub, it did indeed offer some solid texture. I did detect a little bit of an aftertaste but nothing that was offputting. I also noticed that the bagel bounced back well after every bite thanks to an interior that was soft but not fluffy.
Onto the right bagel, which also offered a very crisp rip and tough tear. Interestingly, the exterior of the dough gave off a little bit of a croissant-like or pizza crust-like flaky feel. I wouldn’t say that it had that ideal bagel smell but it was closer to that than the other option. Thanks to that light and porous interior, the bagel did collapse pretty easily on each bite.
(Before you read on for my guesses and the answers, I’d love to hear where you guessed the bagels came from too. Drop a comment below to let me know!)
Guessing Time
I have to admit, I had a pretty good idea of where the bagel on the right came from the moment I saw it. There aren’t many places in Seattle that make a bagel with that coloring and those blisters. When I bit into it and found an almost pizza crust-like interior, I felt like I could pretty much confirm it was Little Market.
As for the left bagel, I felt confident it was a bagel from near the top of my rankings and not one of the facocta ones. At first, I thought there was a chance it might be Bagel Oasis since I’ve gotten a slightly underbaked bagel from there before. However, the sourdough flavor eliminated them and I was left with my other possibility: Oxbow.
Verdict Time
After I lodged my guesses, it was the moment of truth. Do I truly have my finger on the pulse of Seattle’s circular bread roll game or am I a shanda fur die goyim, destined to wander the streets of South Lake Union telling Amazon workers that Einstein Bros. and Panera bagels aren’t that bad, actually…
Thankfully, it is the former.
The bagel on the left is indeed from Oxbow.
The bagel on the right is indeed from Little Market.
The kid’s still got it.
Aside from locking down my bagel bona fides, I also felt like this was a great way to check back in on both places. While Little Market’s approach is a little unorthodox, there’s still no denying that it’s one of the tastiest bagels in town, and undoubtedly the crunchiest.
As for Oxbow, I have to admit this bagel was just slightly out of step with what I’ve been getting from them recently. I enjoyed my initial visit there and felt like they’ve been improving in the months since. This was still a solid bagel, but it’s got me wondering if I need to think harder about Old Salt and whether or not they deserve a shot to come for the crown, especially after my disappointing second trip to Loxsmith.
For now, both bagel places remain No. 2 and No. 3 overall, but there’s bound to be a challenge on the horizon.
MY SEATTLE BAGEL RANKINGS SO FAR (5/28/23)
OUTSIDE SEATTLE BAGEL RANKINGS
The Bagelry (Bellingham)
Howdy Bagel (Tacoma)
Whidbey Island Bagel Factory (Mt. Vernon, Whidbey Island)
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I'm guessing the left is Rubenstein and the right is Oxbow.